Palouse River Canyon Hike

Palouse River Canyon Hike
-Click any image to expand-

A hike in Ice Age Floods region that I always enjoy is the walk from Lyons Ferry at the confluence of the Palouse and Snake rivers to the Palouse Falls overlook. For several years I'd wanted to explore the Palouse River Canyon but wasn't sure about land ownership so I viewed the canyon from the Palouse Falls overlook and the road (SR-261).

One evening I was talking with Dale Middleton and he mentioned that Lloyd Stoess was leading a hike through the canyon and provided me with contact information. A few days later I was following Lloyd and a large group of Ice Age Floods enthusiasts into the Palouse River Canyon.

The trip distance is about eight miles with several ups and downs. Lloyd does a great job and describes the geomorphology, geology, botany, zoology, Ice Age Floods, early Indian history and local families that have lived and worked in the area for years.

During the Glacial Lake Missoula flood events, Washtucna Coulee was filled beyond capacity. Water began to spillover to the south carving out the spectacular Palouse River Canyon.

Geologist Bruce Bjornstad describes the canyon a "Chaotic maze of coulees, recessional cataracts, abandoned spillways and buttes".

Saturday was the third time I've tagged along on Lloyd's hike ... and even though the weather wasn't the greatest with off-and-on rain, I sure enjoyed the day.




Bruce Bjornstad, Gene Kiver and Lloyd Stoess

With his background in geology and understanding of the local history, Lloyd could easily lead these trips by himself but adds two more experts to the mix: Bruce Bjornstad author of "On the Trail of the Ice Age Floods" and Gene Kiver - Professor Emeritus of Geology at Eastern Washington University and Ice Age Floods Institue Executive Committee member.

On this hike you only take a few steps off the pavement before stopping so Lloyd can begin to give you a taste of the incredible history that has taken place in the immediate area. In 1805 the Lewis and Clark expedition visited this site on their trip west.

Lewis and Clark Visit - Nobody's Home

When the Lewis and Clark expedition arrived at the mouth of the Palouse River in October of 1805 they found the village of Palus. The village that appeared to be a "great fishing place" was empty as the Palouse Indians had traveled to the Blue Mountains to gather roots/berries and hunt. After (as Lloyd puts it) "Borrowing a few things" the expedition continued downstream to the confluence of the Snake and Columbia Rivers where many Indians were gathered.

At the camp along the Columbia River, Lewis and Clark presented a Jefferson Peace Medal to at least one Native American leader. In 1964 a Jefferson Medal was recovered during the excavation of a cemetery at the confluence of the Palouse and Snake rivers in Franklin County - The starting point of today's hike.

Link to the story of the Jefferson Peace medal at Palus:Jefferson Peace Medal

You might have the coin pictured above in your pocket.
In 2004 the U.S. mint released a series of coins that commemorates the 200th anniversery the Louisana Purchase. The "tails" side of the first coin in the series features the Jefferson Peace Medal.

Link to U.S. Mint site that describes the: Peace Medal Coin

John Clarke of the Pacific Fur Company
In may of 1813 John Clarke of the Pacific Fur Company arrived at the confluence of the Palouse and Snake Rivers (Called Pavion and Lewis rivers at the time). During the visit a silver goblet owned by Clarke was stolen. The theft of the goblet resulted in Clark ordering one of the Palus Indians to be hung on a gallows constructed with the poles of his own lodge. Word of Clarke's action quickly spread through the various tribes in the Mid-Columbia region.

Soon after the violent act, Alexander Ross recorded the words of Tummeatapam (Chief of the Walla Wallas) - "What have you done my friends. You have spilt blood on our lands."

Learn more about the ramifications of Clark's violent act by searching: Fur Trade Historical Documents

Lyons Ferry and the Mullan Road

Lloyd always does a great job explaining Lyons Ferry that was in operation at this location for 108 years (under several names) and points out that it was part of the Mullan Road constructed in 1858.

Lewistion Tribune story: A River Runs through the Lives of Lyons Ferry

Woolly Passengers on Lyons Ferry:
Every year, rancher Mervin DeRuwe crossed 2,000 to 3,000 sheep at a penny a head. The operation took two to three days and required a chase boat to fish out sheep that jumped overboard. -Lewiston Tribune


Viewing the Marmes Rockshelter Site
The Marmes Rockshelter is one of the most important archaeological sites in the Pacific Northwest, unfortunatly the site is now underwater, a result of the construction of Lower Monumental Dam on the Snake River. Evidence obtained at the site suggests human activity in the area dating back more than 11,000 years.

Marmes Rockshelter (HistoryLink)

Marmes Rockshelter (NWC)

Marmes Rockshelter (Wikipedia)


Inspecting a cave carved by the Ice Age Floods.
The Ice Age Floods sculpted several nice caves in the canyon. These caves always seem to be a popular stop on the hike. Some of the matting used by Native Americans can still be found in the caves. It was apparently used to cover and protect their food cache. It is believed that the caves were used as storage areas rather than dwellings.


View from cave.


Lunch break on the trail of the Ice Age Floods.


Here's a shot for Gene
Gene Kiver seems to appreciate a nice gravel bar. This shot was taken in the spring and shows a large tongue shaped gravel bar just below Saturday's lunch stop (marked as "L"). Note the buttes in the distance.


Palouse River Canyon buttes
These huge buttes are my favorite Ice Age Floods features in the lower canyon.


Looking upstream Palouse River Canyon

According to a story of the Palouse tribe, the Palouse River once flowed smoothly into the Snake. But four giant brothers, in pursuit of a mythic creature called "Big Beaver" speared the great creature five times. Each time Big Beaver was wounded, he gouged the canyon walls, causing the river to bend and change.
The fifth time he was speared, he fought the brothers valiantly and tore out a huge canyon. The river tumbled over a cliff at this point to become Palouse Falls. The jagged canyon walls show the deep marks of Big Beaver's claws. -From WA State Parks site

Almost dark when we arrived at the falls.


J Harlen Bretz interpretive panel.
The new Ice Age Floods interpretive panels recently placed by the Washington State Parks department sure look nice. This one shows a high altitude view of the scablands and J Harlen Bretz who was the first to push the idea of catastrophic flows of water shaping the Channeled Scablands. If you click to enlarge image you might be able to see the mention of James Gilluly. One of Bretz's critics that "saw the light" when he visited the Palouse River Canyon.


Click below for directions to Palouse Falls State Park.

Palouse Falls State Park

I should mention that Lloyd and Gene are members of the Cheney-Spokane chapter of the Ice Age Floods Institute. If you live in that area I would encourage you to attend one of their chapter meetings.

Cheney-Spokane IAFI Contact Information



Thanks for the great trip Lloyd!!! See you in the spring.

Tom

Wallula Gap

Ice-rafted "erratic" stranded high above the Columbia River
UPDATE: I added a second Wallula Gap post to this blog after a November hike on the west side of the Columbia River. Click to open: Wallula Gap (West).

Hey!!! Check it out ... I'm not the last guy on the planet to start a blog! It seems like I'm always reading blogs and wanted to see how they're created and maintained so I just fired up this Ice Age Floods blog on Google's free Blogger program.

When I opened the "Edit Post" box I noticed an icon to add an image - I clicked it and selected the shot above of an ice-rafted "erratic" grounded high in the Horse Heaven Hills near Wallula Gap (15 miles from our house). So this is where the blog starts ... Wallula Gap.

A quick note about the images - I guess an easy way to date them would be to tell you that the ones with green grass were shot in the spring of 2006 - and the images with dead/brown grass were taken this week.

Wallula Gap

For millions of years the Clearwater-Salmon, Snake and Columbia Rivers have maintained this breach during the uplift of the Horse Heaven Hills. This choke point is located 15 miles south of Pasco, WA. Wallula Gap is the only outlet for stream flows from the entire Columbia River Basin of eastern Washington.

When the Ice Age Floodwaters converged in the Pasco Basin, Wallula Gap restricted the outflow creating massive Lake Lewis. In their book Cataclysms on the Columbia, John Eliot Allen and Marjorie Burns reference a calculation of water flow through Wallula Gap at 1.66 cubic miles per hour or nearly 40 cubic miles per day for at least 10 days (Weis & Newman, 1973).

The normal river surface elevation is 335-340 ft. On each side of the Gap, Ice Age Flood overflow channels are found up to 1,250 feet - many ice-rafted erratics are found just below just below that maximum elevation! As the water filled the Pasco Basin it lost the velocity required to transport some of the gravel and silt that had been stripped from areas to the north. Much of this material was dropped in the Pasco Basin.

Two Sisters at Wallula Gap During the largest Ice Age Flood events, these basalt pillars were under 600 feet of water! TWO SISTERS LEGEND The large basalt pillars are actually two Cayuse Indian sisters. Coyote, a spiritual hero of many Indian legends, fell in love with three sisters who were building a trap in the river to catch salmon. Always the trickster, Coyote watched them and at night would destroy their work. The sisters rebuilt the trap daily but Coyote would destroy it each time. One morning Coyote saw the sisters crying. They were starving for fish. Coyote promised them a trap if they would become his wives. The sisters consented and he kept his promise. For many years Coyote lived happily with the sisters but after a while he became jealous of them. Using his supernatural powers, Coyote changed two of his wives into basalt pillars. The third wife he turned into a cave downstream. He then turned into a rock so that he could watch over them forever.-From WSDOT sign at Wallula Gap.

Check Out These Links:

• A nice site by Lyn Topinka: Wallula Gap History


• Good stuff by geologist Bruce Bjornstad: Wallula Gap Geocache

Wallula Gap Image (pre-dam circa 1915) OK ... This one's a little tricky. I'm trying to follow everyone's rules so I'm not linking directly to an image at the University of Washington. To open a great image: Click link below to open the UW Libraries Digital Collection. When the page opens - type "Wallula Gap" into the "Quick Search across all collections" box at the center of the page and click "Search". Once the image page opens, click to expand full screen: Wallula Gap and Sternwheeler Ice Age Floodwaters from Lake Missoula

and Lake Bonneville flowed through Wallula Gap

The Corps of Discovery described the exposed basalt at Wallula Gap as "black rugid rocks ..."
[William Clark, October 18, 1805]

Red dot marks Wallula Gap

The seismograph station for earthquake research at Wallula Gap is monitored by University of Washington's Geophysics Program.

Bruce Bjornstad's book - "On the Trail of the Ice Age Floods" is an excellent source of information on Wallula Gap and many other incredible Ice Age Floods features. The formation of Wallula Gap is described along with hikes and tours in the area. Illustrations include maps and photos of the Wallula Gap area. Stev Ominski artwork on cover.

Wallula Gap Timber: That's me standing next to one of the few trees at Wallula Gap. The arid climate and lack of vegetation allows us to view the awesome landscape created by the Ice Age Floods.
[Photo by Orin]

All images by Tom Foster unless noted. Students/Teachers working on an Ice Age Floods project - Let me know if I can help you with images.

Update September 2014: Hanford Reach Interpretive Center is now open with exhibits covering the Columbia River Basalt Group, Ringold Formation and the Ice Age Floods.
Discover the Ice Age Floods at: http://hugefloods.com/