Wednesday, October 14, 2009

Palouse Falls and Palouse River Canyon - Whitman County Side


Hikers enjoy lunch break at Palouse Falls.


The Ice Age Floods from Glacial Lake Missoula and other sources carved the Palouse River canyon and created spectacular Palouse Falls.

I felt fortunate to be allowed to join a group of six other Ice Age Floods enthusiasts on a hike along the east rim of the Palouse River Canyon. The area is privately owned and has been maintained in a pristine condition by a family that obviously appreciates this unique and spectacular landscape.

Lloyd Stoess organized the hike and arranged for our entry with the landowner. I can't thank him enough for letting me tag along. The arrow-straight upper channel of the Palouse River Canyon and Winn Lake Canyon are Ice Age Floods features I've always wanted to view.


- Click any image to expand -



Our hike began in the rolling Palouse hills several miles east of the canyon. These windblown loess deposits on top of the basalt, have accumulated at depths up to 250 feet. This image was taken near the margin of a huge channel swept by the Ice Age Floods.

Wheat farming ends where the floods stripped away the soil. Mounds shown beyond the wheat are Streamlined Palouse hills that withstood the floodwaters. These large mounds are erosional remnants of Palouse hills.



Another Streamlined Palouse hill along our route. Note exposed basalt bedrock between fence and loess island.

I found the quote below in geologist Bruce Bjornstad's book "On the Trail of the Ice Age Floods":
"The 'islands' of loess which make striking features on many broad scabland tracts are almost invariably elongated with the gradiant of the tract and are almost invariably scarped on the sides and upgradient end ... Many such hills or hill groups are separated by narrow scabland channels. Some stand alone in the scabland, miles from others of their kind."

J Harlen Bretz (1928)



View east - back to the wheat fields.

In early October, Findley Lake looks better on the GPS and maps than it does in person.

  1. Findley Lake

  2. Animal trail to seasonal water

  3. Scabland

  4. Palouse hills east of channel




Google Map terrain view shows one of the Streamlined Palouse hills in the area. Use mouse to navigate map.


Lloyd leads the group through several miles of scabland on our way to the Palouse River Canyon.


I shot a few short videos during the hike. Click arrow to play. Sorry I'm not very steady with the camera. The tripod was home in closet.


Amazing place when you try to visualize the floodwaters that created these features.


The floods scoured out many depressions in the channel that today serve as seasonal water sources for livestock and wildlife.


Google Earth view of the upper Palouse River Canyon. Note deep tectonic fractures in the area that were eroded and scoured out by the Ice Age Floods. The view in this image is to the north ... Arrow marks Palouse Falls ... Washtucna Coulee runs east to west at top. During some Ice Age Flood events, Washtucna Coulee was too small to carry the floodwater. When the torrent overtopped the coulee rim, it flowed south to the Snake River carving the Palouse River Canyon.


Another Google Earth image. View looking south from Washtucna Coulee. The straight 4.5 mile trench in the upper canyon sure is facinating.


View from canyon rim looking north - Up the 4.5 mile trench.



Railroad bridge in upper canyon.



Union Pacific equipment on west side of canyon. Bruce Bjornstad hiking along east rim.


Geologists Bruce Bjornstad and Gene Kiver patiently answered our questions about Columbia River Basalt and the Ice Age Floods.


Laminated deposits on the right confused me. I was behind the group when I noticed these.


View of Palouse Falls State Park viewpoint from behind falls.


Here's a shot for Tyler Bradt in case he finds this page. The flow on the day of our hike was much lower than it was when he made his 186-foot kayak drop off the falls to set a world record earlier this year. Link at bottom of this page to interview where Tyler describes his thoughts as he went over the edge.


Not the best lighting with half the falls in shadow.



View across canyon to Palouse Falls State Park viewpoint. I'm standing in line with a fracture in the basalt that's been scoured out by the floods (large cracks on both east and west rim of canyon line up).

The terraced inner-canyon is pretty amazing. The Palouse River Canyon and nearby Devil's Canyon are good locations to examine Columbia River Basalt flows.


Canyon resident


South of the falls we found several interesting basalt towers.



Hikers stand below group of columns that withstood the floodwaters.


Lone column along canyon rim.


Winn Lake Canyon is an incredible Ice Age Floods feature. A classic example of a flood carved coulee. Walking into Winn Lake Canyon was my favorite part of the hike.


Another shot of loess islands in the channel.



Hikers (bottom left) walk around the upstream end of a Streamlined Palouse hill on our way back to the wheat fields.

The glossary in Bjornstad's "On the Trail of the Ice Age Floods" describes loess as:
Windblown silt and fine sand that has collected downwind of sedimentary basins along the floods route, especially in the Palouse country where it accumulated into rolling hills up to 250 feet thick. Loess began forming about the same time as the earliest Ice Age Floods (about 2 million years ago) and continues to form today.


Images below (2) show examples of windblown loess in the Columbia Basin.


Image recorded by NASA on 4 October 2009. Blue circle marks Pasco, WA.

Arrows label Moses Coulee (1), Grand Coulee (2), Telford-Crab Creek (3) and Cheney-Palouse (4) Ice Age Flood tracts that are well defined in this high altitude image.

NASA TEXT: Visibility dropped to zero in parts of eastern Washington on October 4, 2009, as a large dust storm blew through. This image of the storm was captured by the Moderate Resolution Imaging Spectroradiometer (MODIS) on NASA’s Terra satellite shortly after noon (Pacific Daylight Time). According to local news, the storm brought strong winds gusting to 43 miles per hour in places that propelled the dust across the southeast corner of the state. After numerous multi-vehicle accidents, sections of Interstate 90 near the town of Moses Lake and several local roads had to be closed for several hours.
The dust storm persisted for several hours and was still visible when Aqua MODIS flew over the region at 2:00 p.m. local time. The Terra MODIS image shown here is available in multiple resolutions from the MODIS Rapid Response System.

Open large 7 mb NASA Image of dust storm.



Dust Devil



GPS track shows 14 mile hike route. Thanks again Lloyd!!!



At least I know where Hooper is.



These two patrol the streets of Hooper. Bruce has a story about the big one.


The fractures are pretty distinct in this Google Map terrain view. About five clicks of the "Right" arrow will shift view to the Streamlined Palouse hills shown in several images above.


One more look over the lip of Palouse Falls. I'm so impressed with Tyler Bradt's trip over the falls! Link to Tyler Bradt interview below.


Click above to play interview with Tyler Bradt that describes his world record kayak drop over Palouse Falls.

Link to images and photos of Palouse Falls in winter.

Link to images and photos of Palouse Falls near flood stage.

Link to USGS Palouse River flow at Hooper.

Monday, September 28, 2009

Ice Age Floods Features - East Rim of the Grand Coulee

Photos from a September hike along the east rim of the Grand Coulee - between the "Million Dollar Mile" and Northrup Canyon. Bruce Bjornstad and I enjoyed the awesome Ice Age Floods features found along this 15 mile hike. Not sure of ownership in a few areas ... we tried to stay as close to the rim as possible throughout the hike.

Click any image to expand



Million Dollar Mile

This spendy one mile stretch of Hwy 155 in the Grand Coulee was built in 1948. The cut through the basalt became necessary as the Bureau of Reclamation filled Banks Lake.


Hiked from location marked as 7 to 4.

The Grand Coulee is considered by many to be the most remarkable legacy of the Ice Age floods. Today the massive coulee is used for off-channel storage of Columbia River water. A huge pumping station adjacent to Grand Coulee dam lifts water into the coulee. This water will either generate power as it returns to the Columbia River or flow south to irrigate crops in the Columbia Basin Irrigation Project as far south as Pasco.

1. Lake Roosevelt
2. Grand Coulee Dam
3. North Dam
4. Northrup Canyon
5. Steamboat Rock
6. Nespelem Silt deposits (white bank)
7. Million Dollar Mile
8. Dry Falls Dam
9. Dry Falls
10.Deep Lake


Geologist/Author Bruce Bjornstad hikes near an impressive basalt butte created by the Ice Age Floods.


Hiking south to north along the coulee rim.


The floods scoured out many saucer shaped potholes along the east rim. These are cool but I'm more impressed with the Deep Lake and East Lenore Channel potholes a few miles to the south. Bruce for scale.


The potholes hold water late into the season. A Google satellite image got us close to these potholes. We then followed animal trails to go from one pothole to the next.


The guy on the right - that didn't want to pose - looked like a nice buck.


Half of this pothole disappeared as the Grand Coulee widened.


Looking north up the Grand Coulee. Basalt knob on east rim shown in next image.



Photo by Bruce shows Steamboat Rock to the north. Tom hiking along rim at right.


This Bureau of Reclamation photo shows Grand Coulee Dam and the upper Grand Coulee.

1. Grand Coulee Dam
2. Lake Roosevelt
3. Pumping Station
4. Feeder Canal
5. North Dam
6. Steamboat Rock


Early photos show the Grand Coulee looked much different prior to the construction of Grand Coulee Dam. Photos from top show Steamboat Rock, BOR employees walking through wheat fields on the coulee floor and the clearing of sagebrush.

To view hundreds of photos taken during the construction of Grand Coulee Dam and the Columbia Basin Irrigation Project, visit Central Washington University's Rufus Woods Collection.

This band of palagonite formed when lava flowed into water. -Photo by Bruce ...Tom trying not to slip on the mini marbles.

Columbia River Basalt Group



Bruce standing on ring dike near the coulee rim.



Google satellite view of the same ring dike.

-Use your mouse to navigate satellite view-



East coulee wall

1. Hwy 155
2. Steamboat Rock State Park entrance
3. Northrup Canyon


Here's a shot for the three or four people out there who enjoy longitudinal groove images.


Looking north to Castle Rock (flat top).



Steamboat Rock in the upper Grand Coulee. The Nespelem Silt deposits on the coulee floor can be examined along the lake shore.


The white banks below Steamboat Rock sure are interesting. This view from the coulee rim shows the best exposure of Nespelem Silt in the coulee. These lake deposits were probably laid down in Glacial Lake Columbia between (or after) the megafloods.


Wave action along the shore of Banks Lake disturbs the silt deposits.


Here are a couple of shots taken during a visit to the Nespelem silt deposits in the spring. The petrified doughnuts found on the beach make me hungry.


Bruce views a section of the Nespelem silt deposits. The bank is unstable in places ... Use caution if you explore this area ... Not a good place to visit with children!!!


In some sections of the Nespelem silt deposits you can follow the alligator skin pattern into the bank. Ice age mud cracks!




Back to the coulee rim hike ... Another shot of the Nespelem silt deposits. The white banks shown in previous images are along the far shoreline in this photo. Note the giant current ripples.


Bruce views the flood-swept east rim of the Grand Coulee.

Map created by Bruce shows ice lobe that diverted Columbia River and floodwaters from Glacial Lake Missoula down the Grand Coulee.

At times the ice lobe blocked the Columbia River creating Glacial Lake Columbia. This photo from another trip (a few miles NE of Northrup Canyon) shows Glacial Lake Columbia shorelines cut into the hills 1,000 feet above the surface of Lake Roosevelt.


Haystack Rocks (large pieces of basalt) scattered above the west rim of the Grand Coulee were left behind when the ice sheet melted.


Here's a shot of a huge haystack rock west of the Grand Coulee (wife Teresa left of rock). Yeager Rock sits next to Hwy 172 east of Mansfield.


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Tough place to farm! That's Yeager rock upper left. Use mouse to view more debis left by the ice sheet.


One of the erratic boulders stranded on the east rim of the Grand Coulee. Not as many granite boulders on the east rim compared to what you find on top of Steamboat Rock.


Photo from another hike shows one of the many granite boulders stranded on top of Steamboat Rock. View down the Grand Coulee.


Another of the large erratics on top of Steamboat Rock. View shows mouth of Northrup Canyon (1) and Whitney Canyon (2) along east rim.


Northrup Canyon from Steamboat Rock. Plenty of history in this canyon.


Northrup Canyon Structures.


It was getting pretty late when Bruce and I reached Northrup Canyon. Great day with perfect weather.

Open link to view map of Coulee Corridor


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